Ugly but Good: The Original Recipe for Perfectly Crunchy Meringue and Hazelnut Cookies
There is a category of desserts that I particularly love, and they are those that do not need filters or display perfection: the legendary Ugly but Good.
This quirky name perfectly describes a rustic cookie, with a casual appearance, but with a crunchiness and toasted hazelnut aroma that makes it absolutely irresistible. It is proof that in pastry, flavor wins over aesthetics.
This cookie has been my obsession for years. You may have read dozens of recipes online, but if you’re here, it’s because you know search engines often stick to replicating the basic version.
I, on the other hand, have spent countless trials in the kitchen to uncover the real secret that transforms Ugly but Good from simple beaten egg whites into real masterpieces of dry pastry: managing the meringue.
The strength of this dessert lies in its simplicity (only four ingredients: hazelnuts, sugar, egg whites, and vanilla – and it’s naturally gluten-free!), but the trick to achieving that perfect texture – crunchy on the outside and pleasantly chewy on the inside – is an almost unknown step.
After beating the egg whites to a glossy finish, the crucial step is the double cooking on the stove (yes, right on the fire!) and then in the oven at two different temperatures.
This method, which I perfected after many attempts, ensures that the meringue dries and “matures” on the stovetop, locking in moisture and ensuring that the cookie maintains a compact shape while baking, avoiding spreading or cracking as often happens.
Trust my method: I’ll guide you step by step to create these masterpieces, guaranteeing you an authentic result!
How to Make Perfect Ugly but Good (4 Steps)
- Difficulty: Easy
- Cost: Affordable
- Rest time: 15 Minutes
- Preparation time: 20 Minutes
- Portions: 20/25 pieces
- Cooking methods: Stove, Oven
- Cuisine: Italian
UGLY BUT GOOD Ingredients
- 10 1/2 oz toasted hazelnuts
- 10 1/2 oz granulated sugar
- 1 packet vanillin
- 4 egg whites
Tools
- Kitchen Scale
- Mixer
- Bowl
- Spatula
UGLY BUT GOOD Procedure
Coarsely grind the hazelnuts in a mixer. It’s important to leave some larger bits; they should not become flour. In a bowl, start beating the egg whites until stiff with an electric mixer. When the egg whites begin to foam, add the vanillin and powdered sugar one tablespoon at a time, continuing to beat until you get a stiff, glossy meringue.
With a spatula, gently fold the chopped hazelnuts into the meringue, mixing with upward movements to avoid deflating the mixture. Transfer the mixture to a wide pot with a thick bottom. Cook over very low heat, stirring constantly for 10-12 minutes. The mixture should dry out, firm up, and take on a slightly brown color (the maturation).
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Using two spoons, form irregular mounds (the “ugly”) and place them on the tray about 1 inch apart.
First Baking (Drying): Bake in a convection oven at 300°F for 15 minutes.
Second Baking (Crunchiness): Lower the temperature to 270°F and switch to a static oven. Continue baking for another 30 minutes.Remove from the oven and let the cookies cool completely on the tray. They will still be slightly soft right out of the oven, but will become perfectly crunchy as they cool. Only remove them once they are completely cold.
Notes on Ingredients and Substitutions
Toasted Hazelnuts: They must be toasted to enhance the flavor. The coarse grind is essential; if you grind them too finely, the mixture in the pot will become too runny. You can use Piedmont hazelnuts for superior flavor.
Powdered Sugar: It is indispensable instead of granulated sugar because it dissolves more easily when cold (during meringue whipping), making the meringue more stable and glossy.
Vanillin: You can substitute it with the seeds of half a vanilla pod for a more intense and natural aroma.
Substitution (Hazelnuts): You can replace the hazelnuts with toasted almonds or pistachios using the same amount (300 g) to create equally delicious variations.
Storage
Ugly but Good are an example of dry pastry and keep perfectly for a long time.
Storage: Store them in an airtight tin box at room temperature. They will stay fragrant and crunchy for 2-3 weeks.
Important: Always make sure they are completely cool before storing, to avoid moisture making them soft.
Recipe Alternatives and Variants
Chocolate Ugly but Good: Add 1 oz of unsweetened cocoa powder to the mixture before folding in the hazelnuts, reducing the powdered sugar to 9 1/2 oz.
Lemon Ugly but Good: Omit the vanillin and add the grated zest of an organic lemon to the meringue before the hazelnuts. The acidity will balance the sweetness.
With Mixed Nuts: Replace 100 g of hazelnuts with 50 g of walnuts and 50 g of almonds (always toasted and coarsely chopped) for a mix of flavors.
Perfect Usage and Pairings
Ugly but Good were created for the end-of-meal ritual or afternoon snack.
Perfect with Coffee: They are the ideal cookie to accompany an espresso or American coffee.
Liquor Pairing: Pair them with a small glass of Vin Santo or a dessert wine. The toasted hazelnut flavor pairs magnificently with the sweet liqueur.
As a Decoration: Use crumbled as a crunchy topping on mousses, ice creams, or panna cotta.
Origins: The Story of the “Wrong” Cookies
Ugly but Good (also known as Bruttiboni in some areas) are a highlight of Italian dry pastry, vying for origin between Lombardy and Piedmont. Their creation is often attributed to Galtellì (in the province of Novara), but also to the area of Prato (Tuscany) under the name of Mandorlati or Amaretti. Legend has it they were born from a mistake or an attempt to use leftover egg whites from sweet preparations. The success was immediate precisely for their simplicity and the low cost of ingredients, making them a “poor” but incredibly tasty dessert, loved since the 19th century.
The Secret of the Double Cooking (Perfect Technique)
The two-phase cooking at two different temperatures is the real secret of their unique texture. The initial cooking in the pot over very low heat serves to denature the egg whites’ proteins, making the mixture more solid and less prone to spreading too much in the oven. The second cooking, long and at low temperature (270°F in static), is not meant to “cook” the cookies, but to “dry” them slowly. This slow process eliminates all residual moisture, ensuring the famous crunchiness that lasts for weeks.
FAQ (Questions and Answers)
1. My Ugly but Good stayed soft, what did I do wrong?
Answer: The most common cause is insufficient cooking in the pot or in the oven. If the mixture was not dried enough in the pot (where it should have firmed up), there is too much moisture. Or the oven cooking did not last long enough. Return the cookies to a static oven at 250°F for another 10-15 minutes, let them cool completely and they should become crunchy.
2. Can I use the convection oven for the entire baking?
Answer: It is not recommended. The convection oven at 300°F (as in the first phase) helps dry the surface. But for the final drying, the static oven at a low temperature (270°F) is crucial. The convection, in this phase, risks burning the outside before the inside is perfectly dry.
3. If I don’t have powdered sugar, can I use granulated sugar?
Answer: No, it’s better not to. Powdered sugar is essential because it dissolves easily in cold egg whites, creating a stable and glossy meringue. Granulated sugar would not dissolve completely, leaving the cookies grainy and less stable.
