There are dishes that in Rome are like monuments, such as pasta alla papalina, and Roman broccoli soup is one of them. Unfortunately, in past years it wasn’t always possible to have an “arzilla” at home — it was a luxury not everyone could afford — but Grandma always had a trick up her sleeve.
And here is Grandma Rina’s secret: When you couldn’t find fresh small fish (the “arzilla”) at the market or needed to economize, my grandmother never gave up the taste of the sea. Her fantastic trick was to dissolve anchovies and a little anchovy paste into the soffritto, which gives the Romanesco broccoli soup that briny flavor and makes it special.
It wasn’t a compromise but a solution, and she always said: “If the fish’s missing, we put in the soul!” — and the soul is those anchovies that, melting into the hot oil, turn this broccoli soup into a true masterpiece.
Do you know why this recipe always works?
This recipe is part of my column “A Roman in the Kitchen” which represents a humble way of cooking — very simple but full of flavor.
The secret that makes the difference: It all lies in the initial soffritto; the anchovies leave a very delicate sea flavor and make the soup irresistible. If you then add a nice grating of Pecorino Romano PDO, it will be truly special.
Here are some typical Roman recipes — try them, I’m sure you’ll like them
- Difficulty: Very easy
- Cost: Inexpensive
- Preparation time: 15 Minutes
- Portions: 4 Servings
- Cooking methods: Stovetop
- Cuisine: Italian
- Seasonality: Fall, Winter
Ingredients
Roman broccoli and anchovy soup is a Roman staple; but what was done when there was no ‘arzilla’? Today in my column “A Roman in the Kitchen” I reveal my Grandma Rina’s home-style version.
- 1 Romanesco broccoli
- 2 cloves garlic
- 5 fillets anchovies in oil
- 1 teaspoon tomato (paste)
- extra virgin olive oil
- salt
- Pecorino Romano (optional)
- spaghetti (broken as needed)
Steps
How to make Roman broccoli soup without ‘arzilla’
Cleaning the Romanesco broccoli: Separate the broccoli into florets, wash them and cut them into pieces.
The magic soffritto: In a pot or large pan, add a bit of oil and sauté the garlic (and chili if you like). When the garlic turns golden, add the anchovies and mash them with a fork until they melt completely into the oil.
A touch of color is great: Add the tomato paste and let it flavor for a minute.
Time to cook: Add the broccoli and let them absorb the flavors from the soffritto, stir well, then cover them with water or vegetable broth and cook until they become tender.
Add the pasta: Add the pasta directly into the pot with the broccoli, season with salt, add a little more water if needed and cook the pasta.
The final touch on the plate: Serve the soup in bowls, drizzle with a little oil and sprinkle with Pecorino Romano — it will be a show. And did you know the anchovy trick?
A small helpful tip
If you don’t have anchovies, you can use anchovy paste.
