GENOESE SAUCE TOCCO (U TUCCU ZENEIZE)
The GENOESE TOCCO sauce, known in dialect as “u tuccu zeneize”, is a typical Ligurian meat sauce named because it is prepared with a single piece (tocco) of meat that, after long cooking, flavors the tomato sauce and, once used to prepare the seasoning, is also enjoyed as a second course, in the spirit of zero waste, after all, we are in Genoa!
To cook it, usually, a rather lean cut of beef or veal is used, and although the recipe requires quite a long cooking time, it is very simple.
The Genoese TOCCO is the typical festive seasoning not only at Christmas but also on other occasions and patronal and traditional festivals, and tradition dictates it is used to season ravioli, with meat or borage filling, according to taste.
Preparing Tocco in Genoa is a sort of ritual; it is the recipe that most represents the Christmas spirit, made of small gestures and attentions that express all the love of those who cook for the diners.
To achieve a perfect Tuccu, just follow a few simple rules: use an appropriate pot (ideally earthenware or cast iron), a long and slow cooking process (about 4 hours) on low heat, and obviously choose the right meat – usually matamà or perfilo, or shoulder – because this sauce needs cuts that can withstand long cooking without falling apart too much.
The Genoese Tocco recipe, known as tuccu, that I present today is that of grandma Lisetta, who even cooked it on the wood stove in the countryside! Try it, and you will see that the wait will be worth it. Final advice: keep tons of bread ready at home … you won’t be able to resist making scarpetta!
If you like typical Genoese recipes, also take a look at

- Difficulty: Very Easy
- Cost: Cheap
- Preparation time: 15 Minutes
- Portions: 4-6
- Cooking methods: Stove
- Cuisine: Italian
- Energy 236.19 (Kcal)
- Carbohydrates 3.48 (g) of which sugars 2.15 (g)
- Proteins 15.25 (g)
- Fat 16.83 (g) of which saturated 4.11 (g)of which unsaturated 5.16 (g)
- Fibers 1.78 (g)
- Sodium 509.71 (mg)
Indicative values for a portion of 80 g processed in an automated way starting from the nutritional information available on the CREA* and FoodData Central** databases. It is not food and / or nutritional advice.
* CREATES Food and Nutrition Research Center: https://www.crea.gov.it/alimenti-e-nutrizione https://www.alimentinutrizione.it ** U.S. Department of Agriculture, Agricultural Research Service. FoodData Central, 2019. https://fdc.nal.usda.gov
Ingredients
- 1.1 lbs beef (perfilo, mattamà, shoulder)
- 2 1/8 cups tomato sauce
- 3.4 oz red wine
- 1 stalk celery (chopped)
- 1/2 carrot (chopped)
- 1 onion (small chopped)
- 5 oz beef broth
- 1.1 oz dried porcini mushrooms
- 1 tbsp pine nuts
- 3 tbsps extra virgin olive oil
- 1 sprig rosemary
- 2 leaves bay
- to taste salt
Tools
- Enameled Cast Iron Pot
Steps
First, prepare the vegetables for the soffritto by cleaning celery, carrot, and onion and then finely chopping them in the food processor. Soak the dried mushrooms in a cup with lukewarm water (about 10 minutes).
Heat 3 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil in a casserole (earthenware or cast iron), add the previously chopped vegetables, and sauté for a couple of minutes. Add the meat and brown it on all sides. Pour in the wine, let it evaporate completely.
At this point, add the broth, tomato sauce, drained dried mushrooms, bay leaves, rosemary, and pine nuts to the pot, lower the heat to the minimum, cover, and continue cooking for at least 3 and a half hours. The Tocco sauce should be thick and the meat very tender.
Now you can enjoy the Genoese TUCCU either as a sauce for ravioli or as a second course.
NOTES
The ideal type of pasta to dress with the Genoese tocco is, as tradition dictates, Genoese ravioli with meat and borage or just borage. To know if the sauce is ready, an important indicator is the meat used for the Genoese tocco: it should fall apart even with a fork. If after 3 hours and 30 minutes it is not very tender, cook it longer.
STORAGE
The Genoese TOCCO (U tuccu), once ready, can be stored in an airtight container in the fridge for a maximum of 3 days. It is possible to freeze both the meat and the sauce, and it lasts up to 1 month in the freezer.
FAQ (Questions and Answers)
What is tuccu?
“U toccu” or Genoese tocco is a typical Genoa meat sauce prepared with a whole piece (tocco) of meat instead of the ground meat typical of Bolognese ragù.