The Abruzzo Braid of Sant’Agnese: history, meaning, and tradition of L’Aquila!
The Abruzzo Braid of Sant’Agnese is one of the most representative desserts of the gastronomic tradition of L’Aquila and its territory.
This leavened dessert is prepared every year on January 21, on the occasion of the feast of Sant’Agnese, a very much felt event in the local popular culture, also known as the feast of long tongues or gossipers.
The origins of Sant’Agnese’s Braid are ancient and rooted in the popular tradition of Abruzzo. However, a more precise recipe definition was elaborated in 2004 by the Culinary Institute “Leonardo da Vinci” of L’Aquila, which has contributed to enhancing and passing down this symbolic dessert of the territory.
The meaning of the braid is closely linked to the symbolism of “tongues.”
The egg white and almond glaze recalls the rough tongues, a metaphor for gossip and criticism.
However, it is not about slander, but rather direct and sincere observations, typical of a tradition that invites to speak openly but without malice.
A dessert protagonist of January 21!
Every year, on the occasion of the feast of Sant’Agnese, bakeries and pastry shops in L’Aquila and the province prepare the Braid to celebrate the event.
In the past, it was common to gather among friends and acquaintances for convivial dinners in restaurants and pizzerias, just to celebrate this day.
Even though today this custom seems less widespread, Sant’Agnese’s Braid remains a true identity celebration for the L’Aquila area.
The most traditional version includes glazing with egg white and almonds, but since it is not appreciated by everyone, there is also a simpler variant, where the surface is brushed only with egg yolk, still obtaining a tasty and appreciated dessert.
The Abruzzo Braid of Sant’Agnese is not a quick dessert to make, it requires time, patience, and attention to leavening, but it uses simple and easily available ingredients, often already present in our pantries.
Preparing it at home means rediscovering an authentic Abruzzo confectionery tradition, made of slow gestures and genuine flavors.
If you decide to try it, take some photos, it will be a pleasure to share them on my Facebook page, mentioning you as authors.
Approx. 5540 Kcal for each braid
- Difficulty: Easy
- Cost: Expensive
- Rest time: 1 Day 4 Hours 15 Minutes
- Preparation time: 30 Minutes
- Portions: 2 braids
- Cooking methods: Electric oven
- Cuisine: Regional Italian
- Region: Abruzzo
- Seasonality: Winter
Ingredients to make the Abruzzo Braid of Sant’Agnese
Ingredients for 2 braids
- 5 g fresh brewer's yeast
- 100 g water
- 100 g all-purpose flour
- 360 g whole milk
- 200 g sugar
- 2 egg yolks
- 10 g fresh brewer's yeast
- 200 g butter
- 900 g all-purpose flour
- 600 g dried fruit (I used walnuts, almonds, and hazelnuts))
- 2 egg whites
- 200 g sugar
- 80 g almond flour
Tools
- 2 Non-stick trays non-stick trays
Preparation of the Abruzzo Braid of Sant’Agnese
First, prepare the starter by mixing water, yeast, and flour as listed, and mix well, cover the bowl and let it rest for 24 hours.
The original recipe requires up to a maximum of 2 days.
After the 24 hours, take the mixer and start the dough by pouring the milk, softened butter, sugar, egg yolks, and yeast into the mixer bowl and mix everything well for a few minutes.
Subsequently, add the flour and work the dough for a few minutes until obtaining a well-worked dough.
At this point, take the dough, divide it into two equal parts, and place them in two different bowls for leavening.
Let them rest for about 3 hours covered with cling film.
Once leavening is reached, pour the two leavened balls onto a work surface….
…. and divide each ball into three balls and let them rest on the work surface well covered for at least 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, blend the dried fruit well and set aside.
I blended one half very fine and the other one coarser, but that was just my choice.
Take the first ball of dough and roll it out to obtain a tongue about 14-16 inches long, pour a part of the dried fruit over it (it must be enough to fill all 6 elongated balls), close the sausage on itself and then roll it a bit.
Place the first sausage on a non-stick baking tray and proceed with the other balls.
Once the first 3 sausages are obtained, braid them together to make a braid.
Do the same with the other 3 balls and you will have two total braids.
Let the braids rise for about 1 hour.
Meanwhile, prepare the glaze for the surface by beating the egg whites with the sugar until stiff, then by hand add the almond flour, mixing it well and place in the fridge until use.
Once the braids have risen, spread the glaze over the braids with the back of a wet spoon, or using a pastry brush.
Cover the entire surface with almond glaze and bake in a preheated oven at 329°F for about 45 minutes, checking the cooking.
Once baking is finished, wait for it to cool a bit before cutting it.
It stays soft for days if stored in a food plastic bag.
