Carnival in Florence has a single flavor: that of Florentine Flatbread with Natural Leavening! It’s a low (hence ‘flat’) dessert typical of the period between Epiphany and Ash Wednesday. Despite its appearance, it is a leavened product because, like many other Tuscan desserts, it is derived from a savory bread dough. In fact, even Pellegrino Artusi refers to it as ‘oily flatbread’ or ‘flatbread with cracklings’ because it used to be enriched with lard or cracklings. There’s no bakery or pastry shop in Florence that doesn’t make it. Everyone has their own recipe that they guard closely, making it difficult to replicate this dessert at home. After years of attempts, I managed to create an acceptable version of the bakers’ ones, but using yeast because with sourdough I didn’t achieve the same palatability as the store-bought version. It’s a somewhat complicated recipe but very satisfying if you’re up for the challenge, so let’s fire up the stand mixer and get kneading!
To try a quick recipe that mimics the flavors of the original using chemical yeast or for other traditional Tuscan desserts based on bread, take a look at these links!
- Difficulty: Difficult
- Cost: Cheap
- Rest time: 6 Hours
- Preparation time: 1 Hour
- Portions: 12 People
- Cooking methods: Oven
- Cuisine: Regional Italian
- Region: Tuscany
- Seasonality: Carnival, Fall, Winter and Spring
Ingredients for the natural-leavened Florentine flatbread
The natural-leavened Florentine flatbread traditionally uses lard as fat. However, in my family, we’re not big fans, so I replaced it with butter. Obviously, if you have no issues with lard, you can substitute the same amount of it for the butter.
- 10 g compressed yeast
- 1 tbsp water
- 0.5 oz type 0 flour (with W greater than 320)
- 1 tsp sugar
- 11.6 oz type 0 flour
- 0.5 cup water
- 3.8 oz fresh blood orange juice
- 1 biga
- 3.9 oz sugar
- 0.3 cup butter (centrifuged)
- 2 eggs (large)
- 1 egg yolk
- 1 oz type 0 flour
- 0.25 oz orange (peel)
- 1 tsp vanilla (paste or seeds from one pod)
- 0.05 oz spices (nutmeg cinnamon cloves saffron pepper)
- 1 first dough
- 0.5 oz unsweetened cocoa powder
- 1.4 oz powdered sugar
Tools for making the natural-leavened Florentine flatbread
- 1 Grater
- 3 Bowls
- 1 Stand Mixer
- 1 Kneading Board
- 1 Bench Scraper
- 1 Container
- 1 Baking Pan
- 1 Cling Film
- 1 Thermometer
- 1 Sieve
Steps for the natural-leavened Florentine flatbread
To prepare the natural-leavened Florentine flatbread, you must follow the steps carefully and respect the timings…it requires patience as with any specific leavened product!
Before starting the dough, it’s necessary to create the orange and vanilla flavored sugar. First, weigh the sugar and grate the orange peel
Add the vanilla paste (or pod seeds)
Mix so that the sugar combines with the aromas, cover and let it rest.
In a small bowl, crumble the yeast and dissolve it in water.
Add the sugar and the flour and stir with a teaspoon until a sort of thick cream is formed.
After a quarter of an hour, put the previously sifted flour and the biga in the stand mixer.
Mix them together with the paddle attachment.
Add the orange juice and let it absorb
Finish with the water and after a couple of turns, insert the dough hook and allow it to form.
The dough will be nice and tenacious. Slap it on the work surface and round it off.
Place the dough in a tall and narrow container and wait for it to double. If kept warm (78-82 °F), it will double in 3/4 hours.
Once ready, deflate the second dough and put it back in the stand mixer bowl along with some of the flavored sugar, flour, and eggs previously lightly beaten.
Add the various ingredients gradually until they are all absorbed and the dough starts to form again.
In a small bowl, prepare the spice mix: dissolve the saffron in a drop of water and add the other ground spices. Add it to the dough with the machine running and let it absorb.
Add the softened butter (almost like a cream) always a bit at a time to allow the dough structure to incorporate the fat. Once formed, add the pinch of salt and complete the formation.
The dough should not be tough; it should create a film and be formed but very soft such that when spread on the kneading board it tends to spread out. Use a bench scraper to fold the dough.
Cover it with a large bowl and let it rest for half an hour.
After buttering an aluminum pan very well (I prefer not to add flour, but you can still do it), place the dough in the pan, spreading it gently with your fingers.
Cover with cling film and let it double at 82 °F. It will take a couple of hours.
Once doubled, preheat the oven to 392 °F in static mode.
Once at temperature, lower to 356 °F and bake for about 30/35 minutes. If you have a probe thermometer, the core should reach 201 °F. Take out and let cool completely.
With the stencil (which can be steel like mine, plastic, or just a cut-out sheet) make the classic decoration: first, place the part with the lily and sprinkle with cocoa; then gently remove it, cover the lily (I have a dedicated lily) and sprinkle the whole cake with powdered sugar
The quintessential dessert of the Florentine Carnival is ready. Let the flavors settle before cutting it
The natural-leavened Florentine flatbread is ready. It’s good as is, very simple but it’s very delicious when filled (before decorating) with chantilly cream.
The natural-leavened Florentine flatbread keeps, if not filled, for three or four days covered. If filled, however, it should be stored in the refrigerator and enjoyed within a couple of days. This classic dessert is a bit difficult to make but gives great satisfaction. If you’ve ever tried it, tell me about it on Instagram!
FAQ (Questions and Answers)
Besides chantilly cream, how else can I fill it?
Besides chantilly cream, how else can I fill it?
