Carnival in Florence has only one flavor: that of Florentine Schiacciata with natural yeast! It’s a low cake (hence the name ‘schiacciata’) typical of the period between Epiphany and Ash Wednesday. Despite appearances, it is a leavened cake as it originates, like many other Tuscan desserts, from the elaborate and tasty version of bread dough. In fact, even Pellegrino Artusi mentions it as ‘oily schiacciata’ or ‘schiacciata with cracklings’ because it was enriched with lard or cracklings. No bakery or pastry shop in Florence is without it. Everyone has their recipe, which they keep secret, making it difficult to reproduce this cake at home. After years of attempts, I managed to create an acceptable version similar to those from the bakers but with brewer’s yeast because with sourdough, I didn’t find the same palatability as the one you buy. It’s a somewhat complicated recipe but very rewarding if you want to try your hand. Let’s fire up the mixer and start kneading!
For a quick recipe that mimics the original flavors using baking powder or for other traditional Tuscan desserts based on bread, check out these links!
- Difficulty: Difficult
- Cost: Economic
- Rest time: 6 Hours
- Preparation time: 1 Hour
- Portions: 12People
- Cooking methods: Oven
- Cuisine: Regional Italian
- Region: Tuscany
- Seasonality: Carnival, Autumn, Winter, and Spring
Ingredients for Florentine Schiacciata with Natural Yeast
As mentioned in the introduction, the Florentine schiacciata with natural yeast uses lard as the fat. But in our family, we don’t like it very much, so I replaced it with butter. Obviously, if there are no issues, you can substitute the butter with the same amount of lard.
- 0.35 oz compressed brewer's yeast
- 1 tbsp water
- 1 tbsp all-purpose flour (with W greater than 320)
- 1 tsp sugar
- 2 2/3 cups all-purpose flour
- 1/2 cup water
- 1/2 cup fresh blood orange juice
- 1 levain
- 1/2 cup sugar
- 1/3 cup butter (centrifuged)
- 2 large eggs
- 1 egg yolk
- 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
- 1 tbsp orange (zest)
- 1 tsp vanilla (paste or seeds of a pod)
- 1/2 tsp spices (nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, saffron, pepper)
- 1 first dough
- 2 tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder
- 1/3 cup powdered sugar
Tools for Florentine Schiacciata with Natural Yeast
- 1 Grater
- 3 Bowls
- 1 Stand Mixer
- 1 Pastry Board
- 1 Dough Scraper
- 1 Container
- 1 Baking Sheet
- 1 Plastic Wrap
- 1 Thermometer
- 1 Strainer
Steps for Florentine Schiacciata with Natural Yeast
To prepare Florentine schiacciata with natural yeast, it’s important to carefully follow the steps and respect the times… patience is key, as with any slightly particular leavened!
Before starting the dough, it’s necessary to create the sugar flavored with orange and vanilla. First, weigh the sugar and zest the orange peel
Add the vanilla paste (or the seeds from the pod)
Mix so that the sugar absorbs the aromas, cover and let it rest.
In a small bowl, crumble the yeast and dissolve it in water.
Add the sugar and flour, and mix with a teaspoon until a thick cream is formed.
After fifteen minutes, place the previously sifted flour and the levain into the stand mixer.
Mix them together with the paddle attachment.
Add the orange juice and let it be absorbed
Finish with the water and after a couple of turns, attach the dough hook and let the dough come together.
The dough will be firm and smooth. Slam it on the work surface and round it into a ball.
Place the dough in a tall and narrow container and wait for it to double. If kept warm (78/82°F), it will double in 3/4 hours.
Once ready, deflate the second dough, and put it back in the stand mixer bowl along with some of the flavored sugar, flour, and slightly beaten eggs.
Add the ingredients gradually until they are all absorbed and the dough starts to come together again.
Prepare the spice mix in a small bowl: dissolve saffron in a drop of water and add the other ground spices. Add it to the dough with the mixer running and let it be absorbed.
Add the softened butter (almost like a cream) one piece at a time to allow the structure of the dough to incorporate the fat. Once incorporated, add a pinch of salt and finish the incorporation.
The dough should not be firm; it should form a ‘veil’ and thus be incorporated but very soft so that when spread on the pastry board it will tend to widen. Use a scraper to fold the dough.
Cover it with a large bowl and let it rest for half an hour.
After generously buttering an aluminum baking sheet (I prefer not to add flour but you can), place the dough in the sheet, spreading it gently with your fingers.
Cover with plastic wrap and let it double at 82°F. It will take a couple of hours.
Once doubled, preheat the oven to 392°F in static mode.
Once at temperature, lower to 356°F and bake for about 30/35 minutes. If you have a probe thermometer, the core should reach 201°F. Remove from oven and let cool completely.
With the stencil (which can be steel like mine or plastic or just a cut-out sheet) make the classic decoration: first place the part with the lily and dust with cocoa; then gently remove it, cover the lily (I have a lily for this purpose) and dust the whole cake with powdered sugar
The quintessential Florentine carnival cake is ready. Let the flavors settle before slicing it
The Florentine schiacciata with natural yeast is ready. It’s good on its own, very simple, but it’s very indulgent when filled (before decorating) with Chantilly cream.
The Florentine schiacciata with natural yeast can be kept for three or four days covered, if not filled. If filled, it should be stored in the refrigerator and enjoyed within a couple of days. This classic cake is a bit difficult to make but is extremely satisfying. If you’ve ever tasted it, come tell me on Instagram!
FAQ (Questions and Answers)
Besides Chantilly cream, how can I fill it?
With whipped cream, it’s another classic filling for Florentine schiacciata!
