The Casatiello Dolce Montese is the guardian of Easter tradition in Monte di Procida, a leavened cake that smells of history and the Phlegraean Fields.
Unlike the savory Neapolitan casatiello (born as a hearty meal for farm workers), the sweet Montese version was made at home as a votive offering and as a celebration of the end of Lenten fasting.
At the heart of everything was the criscito: a small piece of leavened dough that the women of the village exchanged from house to house, almost like a ritual of fellowship.
The village women gathered and kneaded by hand for hours, using their fists and all their body weight until the dough “popped” (making little popping sounds), a sign that air had been incorporated correctly.
The cake had to be ready at the stroke of midnight on Holy Saturday when the sound of bells announced the “Glory.”
Its characteristic cracked surface evokes the strength of the volcanic Phlegraean earth and symbolizes, in the Christian rite, the Resurrection.
Although the original recipe requires days of waiting and hard work, it is possible to honor this tradition with shorter times, without giving up the distinctive aromas of millefiori and Strega liqueur.
What follows is the quick version with a faux criscito, enriched by a delicious chocolate chip variant.
- Difficulty: Medium
- Cost: Economical
- Rest time: 3 Hours 40 Minutes
- Preparation time: 15 Minutes
- Cooking time: 50 Minutes
- Portions: 8 People
- Cooking methods: Oven, Electric oven
- Cuisine: Italian
- Seasonality: Easter, Spring
Ingredients
- 4 3/4 cups 00 flour (all-purpose)
- 2 1/4 tsp active dry yeast
- 4 eggs
- 1 1/4 cups granulated sugar (+ 1 teaspoon)
- 1/2 cup sugna (lard) (or lard)
- 3 tbsp + 1 tsp Liquore Strega
- 1 vial Millefiori flavoring
- to taste ground cinnamon
- 1 lemon zest
- 1 egg white
- 1 1/4 cups powdered sugar
- to taste chocolate chips
- A few drops lemon juice
Tools
- 1 Stampo tall cylinder, 9.5 in
Steps
Create the Faux Criscito: In a small bowl dissolve the yeast in 1/4 cup (60 ml) warm water with 1 teaspoon of sugar. Add 3/4 cup (about 100 g) of flour and mix until you form a soft dough ball. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a turned-off oven with the light on for 30-40 minutes (it should double).
The Aromatic Dough: In a large bowl (or stand mixer), put the remaining flour, the sugar, the eggs, the lard cut into pieces, the Strega, the millefiori flavoring, the cinnamon and the lemon zest. Start working the dough.
Joining: Add the risen faux criscito to the main dough. Work vigorously for at least 10-15 minutes until the dough is smooth, elastic and pulls away from the bowl.
Proofing in the Pan: Butter and flour the mold. Place the dough inside, level it and make a cross cut on the surface with a wet knife. Let rise in a warm place for about 2-3 hours, until it reaches about two finger-widths from the rim of the pan (approximately 1 in).
Baking: Bake in a preheated static oven at 338°F (170°C) for about 50 minutes. If the surface darkens too much after the first 30 minutes, cover with aluminum foil. Do the toothpick test.
Prepare the glaze: Mix the egg white with the powdered sugar and the lemon juice as per the recipe until it becomes white and thick (not too runny, it must be “writeable”).
Brush the glaze on the casatiello only when it is completely cold.Apply immediately: The chocolate chips must be placed immediately on the still-moist glaze. If you wait too long, the glaze forms a dry skin and the chips will slide off.
Visual effect: You can sprinkle the chips all over or concentrate them on the central “crack” for a volcanic chocolate effect.
Curiosities:
An intriguing detail concerns the Montesi who emigrated (especially to the USA). For decades, the casatiello was the physical link to the homeland: it was shipped by sea or air in tin boxes, so that even overseas people could smell a bit of home at Easter.
Today, in Monte di Procida, the Casatiello Festival is held, where local pastry shops and housewives compete to decide who made the most fragrant cake with the most beautiful “crack.”
FAQ (Questions & Answers)
What is the traditional “long” recipe for Casatiello Dolce Montese?
Here is the recipe for the Traditional Casatiello Dolce Montese, the one that requires patience, strong arms and respect for the slow times of the criscito.
Ingredients (Amounts for 1 kg of flour – 2 molds 24 cm)
Manitoba flour (or strong type 0): 1 kg (about 8 cups)
Criscito (active sourdough starter): 300 g (about 10.6 oz)
Sugar: 400 g (about 2 cups)
Sugna (Lard): 250 g (about 1 cup + 2 tbsp)
Whole eggs: 8 medium
Liquore Strega: 100 ml (about 3.4 fl oz / ~1/3 cup)
Millefiori flavoring: 2 vials (or 4 tbsp of floral water)
Cinnamon: 1 heaping teaspoon
Salt: 1 pinch
Grated zest: 2 lemons and 1 orange
The Traditional Procedure (3 Days)
Day 1: The First Dough (Evening)
In a large bowl, dissolve the criscito with a little warm water. Add about 300 g of flour and work until you obtain a soft dough ball. Cover with a wool cloth and let rise overnight (about 10-12 hours) in a sheltered place.
Day 2: The Heavy Kneading (Morning)
Joining: Take the starter, which should have doubled. Add the eggs one at a time, the sugar, the remaining flour, the Strega, the millefiori flavoring and the spices.
The Sugna: Incorporate the lard little by little. Here begins the hard part: the dough must be kneaded energetically (by hand or with the hook in a stand mixer) for at least 30 minutes. The dough must become elastic and “pop.”
Rest: Let the dough rest in the bowl for another 4-6 hours.
Day 2: Shaping and Second Proof (Afternoon/Evening)
Grease the molds generously with lard and pour the dough (do not exceed half the height).
The waiting for the Glory: Cover and let rise until the dough almost reaches the edge. With the criscito it can take from 8 to 15 hours, depending on the strength of the starter and the temperature.
Day 3: Baking (Morning of Holy Saturday)
Preheat the oven to 320°F (160°C) (static). A lower temperature and a longer bake are the secret to avoid drying out the cake.
Bake for about 70-80 minutes. Do the toothpick test (it should come out dry).
Let cool completely in the mold before proceeding with the naspro (the white glaze) and the final decoration.
Ingredients for the Glaze (Naspro)
Egg white: 1 (at room temperature)
Powdered sugar: 150 g – 200 g (about 1 1/4 to 1 2/3 cups; add until you reach the desired consistency)
Lemon juice: a few drops (to make the glaze shiny and bright white)
Millefiori aroma: 2-3 drops (optional, to recall the internal aroma)
Decoration: Chocolate chips (to be used instead of the little colored candies)
Procedure
Beating: In a bowl, start beating the egg white with a fork or a hand whisk until it becomes foamy (it does not need to be stiff peaks, just frothy).
Sugar: Add the sifted powdered sugar a little at a time, continuing to stir. The quantity can vary: you must obtain a dense, “writeable” cream (if you lift the whisk, the mixture should fall in a ribbon and remain visible for a few seconds on the surface).
Acidity: Add a few drops of lemon and the millefiori flavoring. Mix well until the glaze looks glossy.
Application: Brush the glaze generously on the casatiello completely cold. If the cake is even slightly warm, the glaze will run off and become transparent.
Final Touch: Before the glaze dries (so right after spreading it), sprinkle with divolilli.
